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Do you have any suggestions on how to treat spots made from dog urination?

Unfortunately we have not found anything that can be done to reverse the yellow, dead spots created from dog urine. The best advice we can give is to train your pet to go in a mulched bed.

I am very concerned about all of the weeds that appeared after you seeded last fall.

After you seed, there will be weeds that come up in your lawn. This is because of extensive disturbance of the soil during the seeding process. Because of this disturbance, weed seeds were brought to the surface. When you expose certain types of weed seed to light, they germinate. Henbit and chickweed are good examples because they are both winter annuals that germinate during the winter months and mature in the spring.

The good news is that your GREEN HARVEST Pro can spray for these weeds. In fact, we have products that will treat broadleaf weeds in newly seeded lawns.

Does GREEN HARVEST suggest bagging or mulching grass clippings?

We recommend mulching your grass clippings whenever possible. Mulched clippings are mostly water, so they decompose rapidly, reduce your mowing time (no bagging to mess with), and most importantly return valuable nutrients to your lawn.

We recommend bagging your clippings if you lawn is extremely tall, there are heavy leaves present, or your lawn is zoysia or bermuda.

How should we go about eradicating moles from our yard?

First of all, most people believe that moles only eat grubs. This is not true. Moles eat a various diet including earthworms, grubs and other insects which can be beneficial for you. That being said, their tunnels are often considered a nuisance and unsightly. Removal of moles from your property can be difficult.

Moles are attracted to water sources. If you have areas of your lawn that pool water after a hard rain, try to correct the grade and install drainage tile if needed.

You can try using caster oil on the mounds. It is supposed to drive the moles out of their tunnels. The most successful and practical method to get rid of moles and eliminate their resulting damage to your lawn is through trapping. There are three excellent mole traps on the market. Each of these, if handled properly, will give you good results. All of these traps depend on the same mechanism for releasing the spring.

The brand name for these traps are Harpoon mole trap, Out O'Sight and Nash (choker loop) mole trap. The trap is sprung as the mole upheaves the depressed portion of the surface burrow over which the trap is set.

If you would like to learn more information about trapping moles, check out this website: The trapping information is near the end of the article.

How do you get rid of my lawn's chronic fungus problem?

Bayleton is the best fungicidal product on the market that is available to consumers. However, it only has a two-week control, which is why it seems like the fungus problem is always coming back. If longer control is desired, you will need to have a fungus prevention product applied by a lawn care company.

I just finished building a new home. What are my lawn options?

You basically have two options to establish a lawn: Seeding or Sodding. Irrigation is important to establishing any lawn, seed or sod.

The best time to seed a lawn is in the fall (September to October). The somewhat warm days and cool nights allow the seed to establish before going dormant for the winter months. We do not recommend seeding more than 7-8000 sq.ft. at a time if there isn't any irrigation. Diligent watering is just too important to the success of a seeded lawn. If the lawn is larger than that and there isn't any irrigation, we recommend seeding the front and sides the first year, and the back the next.

The main advantage to seeding is the fact that you have control over which grass variety you plant. If you lay sod you have more of an "instant" lawn, but are not able to have this control.

I had sod laid 3 weeks ago (bluegrass), it's now about 3-4" high. When should I mow it? It stays pretty wet all day since I'm still watering it twice a day.

Try to let the sod dry out enough to mow it. It is important to keep up with the mowing, because you never want to remove more than 1/3 of the grass blade at a time.

As a current customer, with a dog, I am concerned with toxicity to my pet from the fertilizer and weed control. Do you have an organic program for lawn care?

We can provide customers with a completely organic lawn program when requested; however, the elements of our regular, recommended program should not be considered unsafe.

All of our fertilizer has three components. The first is Nitrogen (Urea). This is a manmade organic product with many different uses including use in handcreams and as a supplement in cattle feed. The second is Phosphorus (real phosphate) that is mined from the Earth. The third and final component is Potassium (potassium chloride) which is the same thing as "lite salt" found in many supermarkets.

Our weed controls (pre-emergents) bind tightly to the soil surface, so they cannot be dislodged (by your dog or anything else). The same goes for post-emergents (weed sprays), although you will want this liquid application to dry before letting your dog out. The grub control product we use is known as merit. This product's active ingredient is also recommended by veterinarians for flea control, as a topical application that is applied directly to the dog's skin.

How short should I mow the lawn the first time this season?

It depends on the type of grass growing in your lawn. As a general guideline, you want to cut it short enough to get the brown off.

For fescue and bluegrass, this will be 1.5-2 inches.

Zoysia and bermuda lawns should be scalped by April 15. (To achieve this, mow to 2" in March, 1.5" April1, and then scalp to less than 1" by April 15.)

Bag the clippings if you can.

I have holes in my lawn all along my walkway and around the driveway. Are these caused by moles? I thought moles create 3-5" wide raised ridges that irregularly crisscross the lawn. Please help!

What you are seeing is vole damage. Voles are small rodents that are about the size of a mouse.

I would start by setting out mouse traps with peanut butter as bait. (Rat traps are too big.) If this doesn't work, try using de-con (a mouse poison commonly found in any hardware store.) If this doesn't work, contact a critter control company.


I have several knock out roses planted in the front of my home. They are about three feet tall and have beautiful blooms right now. I hate to cut them back but is this something I should do this fall? Can they be transplanted in fall or spring?

Knock out roses are beautiful, aren't they!

Let me share some information about pruning these roses that I read in a past County Extension newsletter:

    Knock out roses should be thought of more as a shrub than a typical rose bush. This variety of rose will produce a 4-5 foot by 3 foot shrub. If you prefer it larger in size, little or no pruning is needed. Every few years, you may wish to prune it back about 1 foot. This will rejuvenate the plant and keep it bushy from top to bottom. If, however, the shrub overpowers an area with its vigorous growth, you may want to keep it shorter. If this is the case, prune the plant hard every year. Do this in the early spring while the plant is still dormant. The height can also be reduced during the summer by spot-pruning the tallest canes from time to time. This type of pruning may delay blooming, but will keep the size in check.

As far as transplanting, roses are best transplanted in late winter or early spring, when they are just coming out of winter dormancy. Transplant shock is less at that time.

I planted hyacinth and tulip bulbs a couple of weeks ago, and since it's been so warm, they are starting to come up. What should I do?

The bulbs were probably not planted deep enough--that is why they are coming up. At this point, there is not much that can be done. One thing to try, though it is a long-shot, is to mulch over the bulbs to keep the ground temperature lower.

What can I do about deer in my garden?

Deer are nice to look at when they are in their natural habitat. When they are eating your prized plants, they are not so enjoyable.

White tailed deer are everywhere. They can damage plants all year round. In spring they eat new leaves and buds. In fall, the bucks cause the most damage by rubbing their antlers on tree trunks. In winter, they can eat evergreens to survive.

Things to try:
Repellants: Specific names include Deervik or Not Tonight Deer
Dogs: Dogs deter deer
Fences: Tall, permanent fences will keep them out (not always feasible for homeowners)
Flexible Drainage Tubing: Slit up one side and placed on sapling tree trunks to protect during rutting season (peaks November through end of December)
Hardware Cloth Cages: Protect small trees and shrubs until they are tough enough to survive the deer.

Avoid Plants Deer Like
Favorite foods include tulips, daylilies, hostas, redbuds, cedar and maple

Try Plants Deer Avoid:
The following list is a guideline of deer resistant plants. Nothing is deer proof. If deer are hungry they will eat just about anything that grows in the ground.

Sourwood, sweetgum, birch, catalpa, Colorado blue spruce
Fothergilla, lilac, quince, spirea, boxwood, barberry, holly
Coneflower, penstemon, Russian sage, lamb's ear
Nasturtium, marigold, larkspur, sunflower

Deer avoid plants with fragrant foliage like mint or lavender. They also avoid plants with fuzzy leaves like lamb's ear.

Keys to Success:
Be Observant: Protect your plants as soon as damage or tracks are evident
Read the Label: Apply repellants according to directions
Be Realistic: Nothing is 100% effective

Need more guidance? Try Deer Proofing your Yard & Garden by Rhonda Hart Poe.

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